The oldest street in northern Taiwan’s Yilan County retains traces of the past.
Toucheng is the oldest township in the northeastern county of Yilan and from the 1820s was a hub for trade between Taiwan and China, thanks to its river transport between Wushi and Touwei harbors. As the centuries rolled on, the small town lost its economic advantage when the port silted up after a landslide in 1924, and its fate as a backwater was sealed with the advent of the railway system. Today, a 600-meter-long street of shops and houses has been restored to educate visitors about its prosperous past.
Two Earth God temples dating from 1863 are situated at either end of the street, to keep wealth from leaving the street, while in between them, Qingyuan Temple dedicated to the sea goddess Mazu provides blessings to the faithful.
Many of the buildings along the street were built during the Qing dynasty (1683-1895) in traditional Fujianese style, with others constructed during Japanese colonial rule (1895-1945) in Japanese Baroque style. The Lu Zuan-xiang (盧纘祥) Mansion built in 1928 by the former county chief is a blend of both. Contemporary 3D murals of nostalgic storefronts, foods and sights have been painted on nonheritage structures between the centuries-old buildings.
In celebration of the town’s ephemeral heritage, Literature and Art Lanes display quotes from local novelist Li Rong-chun (李榮春). Although commercial success eluded him in his lifetime, now his words written on plaques adorn a lane and passersby stop to read them. Artists from the town including Yang Qian-zhong (楊乾鐘) also have work displayed along street walls as an outdoor gallery for all to enjoy.
A walk along the old street brings mixed feelings: pleasure at the beauty tinged with nostalgia for its prosperous past.
—by Jim Hwang
Japanese Baroque and Fujianese architectural styles are both represented in the area.
3D murals by Yilan artist Qiu Xian-zhang show nostalgic images of the past.
Art Lane displays work by local visual artists.
Plaques with quotes from local authors and poets adorn the walls of Literature Lane.
The 1928 Lu Zuan-xiang Mansion is a combination of Fujianese and Japanese architectural styles.
A mural on a nonheritage building illustrates Toucheng’s ties with the sea.